here are a few I think you'll find useful; all tested in actual service.
1) Screwy C’pins: Take wooden clothespins, and with a very thin bit, drill a pilot-hole thru both jaws together, right in the center of the fat part of the jaws where they make contact. Then *take small screws, or better yet, small eye-screws, that have a ring on one end-such as are used in fine cabinetry, sand the points off to slightly round them, and prevent immediate breaking of the skin, and screw them thru the pilot holes so the points meet in the middle, and stand sightly proud of (say, 1/16") the wood. This focuses the pressure down to just those 2 tiny points... and the screw are Infinitely adjustable to achieve the Precise degree of pain desired. The eye-screws also allow weights to be hung easily.

2)- As mentioned above- tacky-pads for the bra: ... Take 2 thick acrylic scrub-pads (dollar store)- get the ones as thick as the standard thumb-tack is long, and put one tack right in the very center. Then make a pattern of your preference... a star, concentric circles, diamonds- centered around that first tack. Wear those pads inside your bra for a day.*The tips will not break the skin, but they should dimple it nicely- and pre-sensitize your tits for play later in the evening, if you wear them thru the day.

3) Another thumb-tack idea I've had good results from is *a seat-pad made out of two mouse-pads... one thick, and the other thin. The thick one, again, should be as thick as the shaft of your tacks is long- *with your name, say, being 'jen', or ‘janet’, I'd make 2 J's out of tacks, pushing them thru the thick pad, so that when you sit upon the pad, the curves of the j are on your buttocks, with the long shaft running down the back of your thighs. Vary the initial to the individual; the main thing is to cover the buttock and the back thigh as much as you can. Once you have the tacks in place- *glue the 2nd pad over the heads of the tacks to sandwich them in place... and use the pad when sitting at the computer, or wherever. It's a good way not to fall asleep in traffic, too...

4) Blind-cord flogger: - take that 1/8" thick white cord they use for living-room venetian blinds? Get 9 lengths of it, 10' long; tie them into groups of 3 with a small knot at the one end (Or, just lash them if you don't want the knot-bulk. I find it useful, myself). Braid a normal 3-strand braid up for 16-18", and then wrap a lashing around to keep the braid from un-ravelling; make 2 more just like the first. Then lash all 3 knotted ends together (the little knots then make a nice pommel to stop it slipping from your hand in use), and braid the braided sections up together in that same 3-strand braid, till you have the handle-length you want. Lash it well, at that point, and put as many knots and such along each flail as you like, then cut the flails to your preferred final length- and, voila!

5) Lamp-cord Martinet- Take a 12-15’ length of lamp-cord, split it into it’s two halves, then find the center-point of each half, and knot them together at that point. Then do a basic 4-cord braid for the length of handle you want, and knot the cords again to finish the braid and leave the tails free to be trimmed to your preferred length. Of you use 2 lengths of unsplit lampcord, you can divide them after the handle-braid for an 8-tail cat. But, be warned! Both of these should only be used lightly, until you see how they handle and the impact they have. Either one can badly cut flesh if used too hard.

6) The Persuader: Take any belt, and put it around the lass'es waist- it is unimportant other than as a support for the persuader, so any belt will do. Take 2 reasonably-thick (say, 1/16", good-quality) leather strips, approx 3/4" to 7/8" wide, tapering slightly to each end, and about 6-8 " in length. Take, then, 1" long straight-pins, and put them along the one strip as it is laid flat, alternating points and heads, drawing the heads to the outer edge of the strip, but not actually 'On' to it. Cover at least 4" of the length, Mine has a pin every 1/4", so the points show 1/2" apart. Then glue the other strip atop it, without disturbing the pins, and put two long laces, one at each end, to tie it front and back on the belt. When she is bent, the strip is tied to the back of the belt, then pulled taut to the front, so it lays along her crease,esp. over her anal ring and almost to her ‘taint’ , which is splayed as she is bent- not enough to hurt, just enough to give purchase. But if she tries to stand, or clench, under the cane, she is ‘persuaded’ this is unwise.

7) Electric pony. Take a galvanised metal plate, tack it to a square of plywood- solder a wire to one corner. This is the standing-area for the sub, so make it at Least 2’ square, preferably 3’. Then take a 6-v flashlight battery (Or a 9-v battery and it’s little connector-cap pad, and hook to the wires off it) and hook one post up to that wire. Next. Take 2 stiff plastic pipes 2” dia., minimal) and mount them solidly into floor-stands; if you can also attach them to the roof so they are rigid, this is best of all. On these pipes, set 2 adjustable clamps that can slide up and down to any desired height- and between these two clamps, secure a copper pipe as long as the two uprights are apart- again, stiff, not flexible.
I found 1” seemed to work well. To this pipe, solder another wire, leading back to the 2nd post on the battery. If the lass stands on tip-toe on the galvanised plate, one sets the cross-bar to say, 1/2”-3/4” below her crotch. As long as she stays on tip-toe, she’s fine- but as her thighs and labia touch the cross-pipe, the circuit completes. And all shocks are below heart level, and DC current, too- totally safe, unless there is a medical condition.

8) PEX cane. Take a 36” length of 1/2” PEX tubing (used for plumbing). It is very flexible- so I then took a 1/4” wooden dowel, sanded it just enough to fit in the PEX, coated it with glue, and inserted it down the center of the tube, then left it to set. This is lightweight, stiff enough to be Very accurate- and one of the few toys I have poppet fears. Adjust the length to your own preferences; if you have large hands, make the handle longer than 6”, etc. This is one thing I Do like- the toy can be tailor-made to one’s own specs.

9) Zipper. I included this because I was asked to; most people already know it. I cannot take any credit, here. Take a length of string, and along it, separating the clothespins by about 2-1/2" , or even 3”, between, string the clothespins, tying knots on each side of the pin to keep it in its place. Try to get a dozen or so pins on each zipper- I really prefer 13, just 'because'-lol. When one attaches all the clothespins, you see- say, across the breasts from nipple to nipple, or with 2 of them, over the breasts and down both sides- then with one swift yank undoes them all from you- it feels like you are being 'un-zipped'. Hence the name.

10) Sting: Take an electronic wasp-killer- pref. One that uses a 9-v battery- the kind that look like a child’s toy plastic tennis racquet, with steel cross-bars instead of netting. Cut the entire head off, being careful not to cut the wires that lead from the capacitor to the head you are removing. When you can see those, take as much slack as you can in the wire, keeping most in the handle end, and cut it free. Then take 2 of the steel cross-bars, and solder one to each of the two capacitor wires. Finally, wrap each connection well in electrical tape, then build up the whole head of the handle with the tape to form a flexible seal that allows the two free tips of the steel rods to be adjusted for distances apart. Mine can go from a 1/8” spark-gap to 6”. I.e., from the width of a clit or sphincter, to any area on the body, really. Touching both sides of the vaginal wall can be interesting if one holds the on-button down. She clenches up, and the shocks keep coming.. (well, *I* think it’s fun)

11) Labia-clamps. Take a pair of pants-hangars that have the cam-neck and a cross-bar that divides when the neck is twisted sideways (They hold pants by their cuffs, to avoid creasing across the knees). Cut off most of the wood, leaving just enough to leave the metal and neck still solidly attached- then sand the corners round and smooth, and line the inside faces of the cross-bars with sandpaper to help the grip. When applied, they grip the whole labia- and the neck-hook can then be put beneath her garters, so she is held totally open for whatever you may wish.

12) Hot Needles. Acquire up to 1 dozen, but minimally 6, biology-kit dissection needles, like you used to see in high school when they hauled out the frogs. A 6-8” wooden handle, with a 2 to 2-1/2” steel point. You also need the alcohol burner from a fondue set, and you’ll have to bend a section of coat-hangar into a suitable rack (like in an ash-tray, for holding the cigarettes) so that it will hold the needles in a circle around the burner, with the tips all held in the flame. The idea with these is NOT to penetrate the flesh, but just to touch the tips to the skin. I can usually get 2 touches before the needle needs a re-heat. I can space the touches as closely as every square 1/4”, if I wish- so one can take a LONG time to even cover a single breast. And under/behind the knees, or in the armpits, or the inner walls of the vagina, when she is held open by the above-mentioned labia-clips, ought not to be neglected either. Again: Do NOT penetrate the flesh. You want to hurt her- Not Cook her.

13) Fan-belt single-tail : This is for Serious players ONLY! Take the well-worn fan-belt off a car when next one is replaced- if it is broken, simply cut the ends clean, then mount to a handle; otherwise, slice it into a single length instead of the loop, and mount to a handle. Only the well-used ones will straighten out to a single-tail; new ones won’t lose the bend. But this is heavy! It has Impact! And it Hurts! Be Very careful till you get the feel of it.

14) Shoe-horn - There is a style of plastic shoehorn, that comes in assorted colors, that is about 20’ long, with a 2” ring molded at the end-bulge at the end of the handle, to hang the shoehorn from. This toy needs NO modification. The slight curve at the tip almost perfectly matches the curve of a buttock; the convex side gives on type of impact; the concave side, due to air-compression in the hollow, a different kind. And again, no need to over-exert oneself, it is All in the wrist-action. This is an Exceptional! Spanking tool; I recommend it to Every toybox.

15) Eeny-meany-miney-Mo Eeny-meany-miney-and-Mo are 4 paddles I cut from 1/4" plywood- the blades are 30" long, with a 6" handle, for total 3'. The blades vary from 1-1/2' (eeny), 2-1/2" (meany), 4" (miney), and 6" (Mo). All have a rounded tip, and the edges sanded to remove the corners. and Mo has a series of 3/8" holes, set 1” apart down the vertical rows for a distance of 2 feet (the impact area), all chamfered on both sides, drilled in 3 rows off-set from one another (staggered, sideways) and the outer 2 rows set 1-1/4" outwards from the central one. When it is used, the flesh gets pushed up into the holes, you see.... an effect one has to experience; no description, I'm told, can do it justice. However, all of the others get very high ratings from the subjects each was tested on- eeny, it was unanimously judged, was deceptive indeed. One caution- Make SURE to chamfer the holes. Otherwise, you get a cookie-cutter effect in the holes, and you can actually remove small divots of skin and flesh if the impact is hard enough; the flesh almost vacuum-seals into the hole, and cannot release in time as the paddle comes away. So- Be CAREFUL.

16) Small hair-clips - There are small plastic hair-clips, sold a dozen or twenty to the card, for small girls’ hair; they open along a central spring, like a clam-shell, and have little teeth or fingers along each rim; they often are shaped to look like butterflies, or small flowers. These make Excellent nipple and labial clips for long-term wear; if the lass rotates them 90 degrees every half-hr or so, they can be worn all day long with no ill effects, tho the nipples Will get very sensitive, especially if they’ve also been confined in a bra. On the labia, they can be positioned so that as she walks, they click together and slightly catch on one another, to provide a constant stimulation by their pulling and tugging. These are bought, not made- but are very inexpensive, and can provide excellent ‘light’ play thru the day.


There- something for every taste; I hope they find appreciation in your toyboxes as well.